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London
Once you have arrived in London, there are assorted places that you
should, you really should, go and see.
A good starting place is Trafalgar Square with Nelson’s Column right
in the centre. It is a 51m column, poised on top of which is the hero of
the Battle of Trafalgar, who was killed while winning in 1805. The four
lions which surround the column are of more recent date, having been
sculpted by Sir William Landseer in 1868. There are many claimants to
being the heart of London, but Trafalgar Square has the best right,
because it is the hub of so much that is wonderful.
Just alongside is the church of St Martins in the Fields, which is open
throughout the day and has been around for a long time. The current
church dates from 1726, but there has been a church on that site since
the thirteenth century. This is the parish church for Buckingham Palace
and, yes, there is a royal pew. The church has some wonderful lunch time
concerts, which are normally free.
On the next side of the square is the National Portrait Gallery, which
is fascinating because it has the largest collection of portraits in the
world although, understandably, only part of the collection is on show
at any one time. Behind is Charing Cross station, not of great interest
except that in the side road running alongside is The Players Theatre,
old time music hall where the audience is expected to dress up in the
right costume and positively join in with the show.
Running from there is the Strand, which was once the fashionable
thoroughfare of London but fell on slightly seedier times. It is
currently being upgraded and it still contains the Savoy Hotel - one of
the great hotels of the world.
If you reverse your course from Trafalgar Square, you will go up the
Mall, past Horse Guards Parade and at the end is the impressive building
which is Buckingham Palace. And you pass St James on the way up.
So that’s one quick fix on part of London from one central point. But
London has so many other central points. You can do the same sort of
orientation from Piccadilly Circus or Hyde Park Corner or, indeed,
pretty much anywhere. Once you have your bearings you can start to
concentrate on specific areas.
You might like to start with the Houses of Parliament, which have been
operating in one form or another since 1275. Worth knowing that the
original Parliament was in St Stephen’s Chapel and the members sat in
the choir stalls facing each other. That tradition carries on to this
day.
You can go to the visitor’s gallery in the afternoon and evening when
Parliament is sitting. Typically it opens at 2.30 PM and will stay open
until 10.30 PM or even later. If you plan your visits for the evening
you will not have to queue.
Just round the corner is Westminster Abbey. Every King and Queen of
England since William the Conqueror has been crowned here, and many are
buried here, as well as many other notable historic figures. In the
memorable words of an American Wimbledon contestant - “it’s just a
lot of dead dudes.†Westminster Abbey is one of the great tourist
attractions of London and it is nearly always crowded. Your best bet is
to get there at opening time, which is 8 AM.
And from there you might like to go and see the Changing of The Guard,
which happens from about the middle of April until the end of July at
11.30 in the morning, and creates monster traffic jams with parked
tourist buses everywhere. Get there early and you will see one of the
five regiments of Foot Guards march from Wellington Barracks and go
through the age-old ceremony. You may not understand the orders being
shouted, but they are in English. On one occasion that whole guard was
mounted using the single command, “bacon and eggs.†Strange but
true. If the scene outside Buckingham Palace is a bit too crowded for
you, go to Horse Guards in Whitehall and watch the Household Cavalry
mount the guard and then ride off along the mall. Both guards are
changed about the same time.
From military pomp and circumstance you can venture to somewhere a
little softer, a little more restrained. One of the new places, which
have grown into a major tourist attraction, is Covent Garden. This used
to be where all the fruit and vegetables coming to London from the
country were sorted out and sold. You may recall that the opening scenes
of Pygmalion and, later, My Fair Lady are set there. Now the fruit and
vegetable markets have moved out to the suburbs, but some of the old
feeling still remains. There have been tremendous efforts made to
refurbish the old buildings so they retain a feeling of authenticity.
Covent Garden Plaza in the centre of the area has regained some of the
popularity it experienced in the 17th-century. It has coffee-houses,
street entertainment, boutiques, elegant shops and a feeling of cafe
society. All traffic is banned, which makes walking around a pleasure.
Walk from Covent Garden down Fleet Street, once the newspaper capital of
Britain until Rupert Murdoch moved his newspapers to the old dockland
area. And there, ahead of you, is the majesty of St Paul’s.
This is the building that survived the Second World War against all
odds. It was designed by Christopher Wren, although this is the third
church on the site. The previous one burned down in the Great Fire of
London in 1666. It is interesting that this is one of the very few
cathedrals in Britain to have been designed by an architect, and the
result is glorious.
If you’re feeling exceptionally energetic, climb to the Golden Gallery
- 530 steps, and you will be puffing at the end - to see one of the
great views of London. In a very real sense St Paul’s is one of the
churches of the City of London. It gets a bit confusing, but note that
the City of London is quite separate from the rest of London, which is
Greater London. The City of London even has its own special police
force. It is the financial centre of the city of Greater London, and
once boasted Dick Whittington as its Lord Mayor. You can walk the narrow
streets for hours and find something fresh and fascinating around every
corner.
From there it is very easy to walk down to Tower Bridge and the Tower of
London, which is awesome, frightening and yet at the same time extremely
charming. While you are there, look at the Crown Jewels in the Jewel
House. You go past them on a traveling walkway, which gives you time to
try and work out how much they are worth.
All of this that has been suggested would take two days and would give
you a feel for the city and a taste, but only a taste, of the charms of
London.
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